Went to the track tonight :(

[Ibbanez]

Well I went to the track tonight and wellll...............................................  Lets just say I decimated my clutch   On this turbo with my stock rims and old worn out tires at 23 psi and Jackal, I was cutting 1.6 60 ft times and running 7.8 in the 1/8th mile....  Now Im running werewolf and 31 psi and as soon as I launched im hitting the rev limniter so i short shifted into 2nd and it bogged horribly, then Im still gassing it and the turbo is spooling up terribly fast, and Im doing nothing but bouncing off the rev limiter, shift to third and the same thing all over.  I cross the line at 85 mph and 8.5 seconds......  So, it sucked, but its awesome that Im making that much power that the act 2600 and 6 puck didnt hold up to the power im putting down.  Luckily I have a fully built 2.3 and quarter master twin disk in the garage just waiting to go in.  Now I just need time to do it all, along with all my rear bushings for the subframe and everything under the car.  Along with that I have my jays racing rear active toe eliminator kit, ingalls rear camber bars, a brand new 3pc chromoly crossmember set for up front, just bought those nice purdy shiny new Avid Racing 3 pc motor mount set (didnt get the 4 pc cuz the chromoly front has a solid mount built in for the front, racing seats and brakcets and a nice 6 or 8 point roll cage).  I really just need time to do all this, which is something I really dont have a lot of, those of you that know me know how busy I am.  As much as it pains me to do it, but I might have to just drop it off at my friends shop and say here just throw it all in for me for some cash   Cuz that is about the only thing I have at the moment...  Oh did I also mention time for getting the outside done, along with some track mods such as front splitter, rear difuser, rear spoiler, and some new front brakes.  I just put porterfield rs-4 kevlar pads on all four corners and dual piston up front, but its not enough for how fast Im going.  Stuck between TCE 4 piston brake kit and maybe the evo brembo 4 piston fronts.....  Y'all wanna know the funny part about the track outing today, was the fact that even though I wasn't moving anywhere and clutch was just free revving basically, I was still out running everyone that lined up against me.    lol hahahahahahahahahaha

[hakcenter]

Just like watching the funny cars blow up just off the line.. and still squeeze off a 7-9 second pass... 

[CrackedDSM]

Throw me some cash and I'll install everything you want in the car.  Me and my father both.  I may have issues with VE tables, but I'm not new to DSM's.  Plus I'm hard pressed for cash at this point anyway, and want to ask my girl to marry me. 



/sob story.

[standard235]

NICE! As far as the toe elim and ingall arms, I just did mine. Car is almost finished and ready to get aligned, trying to squeeze more out on the ol Jackal before Werewolf comes out

I just saw that 3 piece crossmember as well on Tuners, would love to pick that up and I feel that I might here soon...

[Mr Peepers]

I wish the track was open already here!  2 more weeks...

Between welding my own active toe eliminator and some poly front control arm bushings the car goes straight in 2nd and I can almost let go of the wheel in third(not that I would :p)  Extending my rear upper control arms so I could get 0* camber in the back made it go straight back when I was on the 14b.  We'll see if it puts more power to the ground now, it surely can't hurt.

Is that a fairly worn out 6 puck?  I have a hard time seeing a healthy 6 puck and 2600pp slipping without oil contamination etc. 

I just read that you have a twin disc ready to throw in, but on a side note I HIGHLY recommend the SS series South Bend Clutch kits with the TZ series full face kevlar disc http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi%20SBC%20Clutch%20Parts.html  Very durable and streetable single disc setup for the power they hold.

[red97rum]

I wish the track was open already here!  2 more weeks...

Between welding my own active toe eliminator and some poly front control arm bushings the car goes straight in 2nd and I can almost let go of the wheel in third(not that I would :p)  Extending my rear upper control arms so I could get 0* camber in the back made it go straight back when I was on the 14b.  We'll see if it puts more power to the ground now, it surely can't hurt.

Is that a fairly worn out 6 puck?  I have a hard time seeing a healthy 6 puck and 2600pp slipping without oil contamination etc. 

I just read that you have a twin disc ready to throw in, but on a side note I HIGHLY recommend the SS series South Bend Clutch kits with the TZ series full face kevlar disc http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi%20SBC%20Clutch%20Parts.html  Very durable and streetable single disc setup for the power they hold.

Yeah I wouldn't think a 6 puck would slip that easily, but you need to pull it out either way to find out what's going on. 

I've been running the southbend kevlar disk with a used ACT 2600 pp and ACT flywheel for about a year, I also would recommend one (if you didn't already have the twin).  My car's cut 1.6's, trapped 127 mph and multiple 125-126mph runs with that clutch.  When I pulled it out a couple weeks ago it still looked great and a friend of mine bought it to run in his car.  They engage very smooth also, which is nice for the street.

[Ibbanez]

Well the 6 puck has about 2 years on it at least, possibly more.  the prior owner had 434 awd hp with the 60-1 that was on there when I bought it using link.  the first thing I did when i brung the car home was pull link out and install Jackal, my old FMIC kit i had and a GT32 turbo since that one was blown....  Also Im gonna test out a few more things, cuz while tuning on the street, 3rd gear runs have been fine including up till the day before the track day.  So idk if something happened or maybe the track was just horribly slick or something.  It just weird because before I was launching hard as shit and running awesome.  I was also at a much lower power level considering where its at now.  Maybe its possible that I just spun through 2nd and 3rd.  2nd I can see, but 3rd is hard for me to believe.  The other thing is maybe I overheated the clutch on the way over, or some type of fluid got on the disk.....  IDK, Im gonna try some launches over the next few nights to test.....  We will see I guess....  Another thing, I just put on other things like bigger rims and tires, which I contend should actually help the traction cuz a)wider stickier tires than what I had and 2)bigger heavier rims should help with spinning the tires as much from the increased hp....  Now the coilovers I installed, I lowered the car and maybe threw the balance off or something, but they are also way stiffer than what was on it prior.  IDK, it just really sucked...  But everybody knew that something was wrong due to the way it revved and didnt go far, plus the fact that I still had a ok time considering what was happening and I still beat the other two vehicles

[Mr Peepers]

I'm running Tim Zimmer's old clutch disc that he is referring to in the product description, if that says anything   I've put about 10,000 miles on it or so after his 30,000.  Threw it on an unmachined flywheel and old 2100ish pressure plate, no idea why it still holds up.

[1990talonfast]

2.3L stroker is a beast off the line, you better get some good tires.

[DOHCstunr]

Man i'd love a 2.3 or a 2.4.  I miss the torque of my old n/a DOHC 4g64.   I feel like swapping in the 4g63 cost me  lot in the 1-4k rpm range.     IDK if I need a smaller turbo or a real tune.   I'm thinking the latter. 

[Ibbanez]

Well I have a pretty big turbo, the fp3065....  Its good for 550-600 hp at the wheels.  Now this turbo is a little laggy, but for its power output its actually a much faster spool than other big power turbos....  I hit 31 psi at 4500-4700 rpms.  Now in a gear like 4th or 5th I can start spooling the turbo at like 2500-3000 rpm but its not moving really at all.  Now realistically around 3500 is when it starts going decently and after 4k it really begins to kick in and kick in fast.  Now Im guessing here that once I get my stroker in, spool will be reduced a decent amount.  So it should start behaving like I have a smaller turbo and yet have the power of the bigger ones.  Im also about to pre order that new magnus v5 cast intake manifold.  There is a lot of simulation and R&D that went in to that thing and is beating every other SMIM out there.  So now Im going to be selling the JMF street SMIM that I have and will be buying the new one.  So I have a lot of new stuff going on and in and it should be a beast and finally give me that down low grunt Ive been missing.  We will see.  Stick around everyone and I'll update as we go...

[DOHCstunr]

hmm.  IDK sometimes I think my turbo is shit or something.  I mean its just a SBRg50 50 trim and it doesn't even start spooling until 4000 and the full 24 psi around 4500-5000 depending.  This is in 2nd.   It won't reach full boost in 1st. 
Something is incredibly wrong if I can have a fwd car and not spin tires at 24psi in 2nd gear.

4th gear doesn't do anything until around 4k for full boost. 

there's no shaft play(just the normal tight wiggle for oil clearance)  and it spins freely.  no exhaust leaks whatsoever, no boost leaks whatsoever, and I have a tubular manifold, tubular o2, and a full uncatted mandrel 3" turbo back.   I just don't get it.  I mean my tune is absolute soot blowing garbage,  but still.

[Ibbanez]

If its blowing absolutely soot, then you are way to rich.....  My turbo is much bigger than yours and I start spooling at 3500 and reach full boost anywhere from 4400-4700 in all gears.  actually 4th and 5th would be sooner but I never do a full run starting that low in those gears.  Now I would say while you are tuning to lean it out.  What are your afr's on your WOT runs???  Are you tuning yourself and using a Wibeband o2 kit?>??/  I really hope you are using these to actually tune your car, not just winging it.  If so, then why are you so rich?  I run 11-11.5 with 31 psi on a 65 lbs/min turbo.  Now I have all the supporting mods and a kick ass ETS Race FMIC, you really should not run that rich no matter what.  I dont care what others say, you should never run low 10's afr on anything.  The people that say that are probably on a stock block and stock other mods and are doing this to get a little more out, but its worse off on power doing that anyway rather than run lower boost and leaner.  You will make it spool faster by just leaning it out i promise, unless something else is wrong.

[DOHCstunr]

I have two widebands lol.  One aem for the gauge and one innovate lc1 wired into the ecu.
I'm lacking a logging cable.
I'm sure whenever one does get shipped to me, I'll be due for some serious seafoaming.

[Ibbanez]

Ok look here.  Now I dont suggest fully tuning your car this way, but take a buddy out and do some 3rd or 4th gear full have him write down a rough idea of what your afrs are.  Then use the tuning formula to make the adjustments to the VE tables in that map sensor row.  It would at least lean you out some from being so damn rich...