Project "10s on a 2.3/16g"

[2.3strokdtalon]

Per request I'm starting my own thread for this debauchery of a build.

I'll start off with a build list so you guys know what i'm working with.

Block:
100mm Eagle Crank
JE pistons 8.5:1
Manley H rods
ACL Race bearings
ARP hardware
Balance shafts removed

Head:
Casting marks removed and intake port hump flattened
I&E ports gasket matched and polished
1mm OS Ferrea 6000 series valves
New Bronze valve guides
Supertech Dual valve springs
HKS 280 cams
ARP 2000 head studs
Mitsu MLS h/g

Exhaust:
Custom equal length header w/ 44mm w/g
Tial 44mm vband w/g
Evo III 16g w/ flapper welded shut and turbine housing ported
O2 housing flange with 3" vband welded on to accept 3" vband d/p
QTP 3" exhaust cutout ~3ft from turbo
2.5" catback to a stock EVO muffler (for street use)

Intake:
ETS Ultra Race 4x11x28" core
2.5" Custom short route IC piping
SBR SS J pipe
4" Custom Aluminum CAI that puts filter where the stock SMIC was

Drivetrain:
Stock trans/t-case
Welded center diff
ACT 2600 w/ Southbend Kevlar disc
ACT XACT flywheel

Fuel:
Dual in tank 255s
Stock feed/return
Fuel lab filter
-6 line from filter to stock return
Aeromotive A1000 FPR (37psi BFP)
FIC 1150s

Other:
NGK wideband
AEM 5bar MAP
GM IAT
EPROM ECU
Tuning aid....TBD...sponsor?maybe? haha

I'm probably forgetting somethings but thats the jist of it. Here are some pics of where I'm at right now. The motor will be going back in this month. I'll be updating this thread as progress moves forward.






This mani had a crack in it that's been there since the beginning of '09 lol FIXED


Flapper welded shut and silly ported E316G

[2.3strokdtalon]

Fuse Box moved to the passenger side inner fender well below the headlight.

[onewhiteguy]

looks good, i like the flat black engine bay, and the fuse box relocation...did you just spot weld in the holes and smooth them down?

[ForceFed86]

Looks nice! Weight reduction will be your best friend in that quest. Few questions/ideas...

1) Why did you go with 8.5:1 if you plan on using a small turbo?

2) What do you mean by silly porting on the 16g?

As far as suggestions....

1.) Welding the flapper closed creates excess backpressure and will slow you down. Porting the exhaust housing to induce "creep" and retaining an operational gate will make more power.

2.) the screen/mesh in front of the turbo restricts more flow than you would think. (usually more than a good large area filter)  If you insist on running some type of screen, go with a honey comb type material found in the MAF. This will increase  laminar airflow into the turbo inlet and up it's effeciency slightly.

http://www.blackclouddiesel.com/Ford/TAG/tag.htm

IMO any restriction there is bad. A velocity stock and nothing else has proven to work best on most dyno pulls I've been a part of.

3) lastly IMHO you went to big! Awesome setup I'd love to have, but the 16g just won't be able to keep up with the huge cams/ported heads/intake/IC etc. If you went with more compression it would have helped alot with this.     

Throw a nice big snail on that thing and go trap in the 140's.
 

[2.3strokdtalon]

This car wasn't built around running a 16g, but a lot of the things that look unorthodox are actually tips and things done to CBs car and he did OK on his 16g setup. I basically just took out my custom ground Comp cams and S366 to add in some Kelford 272s and a 16g. We also have a few locals running damn near 500whp/wtq on 16gs who have a lot of the same "big ticket" parts that are almost in the 10s (11.0). The mesh on that turbo was there when I bought it and it just hasn't come off. I have a 4" aluminum intake that mounts where the stock smic bolted. This intake will be left open w/o a filter. By silly porting I meant just that. Yes, the flapper is welded shut and yes the turbine inlet has been opened up substantially. Not at the 7cm opening, but where the housings "choke" point is. Honestly, I don't really care what the car runs. I've always ran bigger turbos and trapped 130, 140+ plenty of times. I'm just looking to have a little fun in a 16g car this season. I have started reducing weight too. The mild steel cage isn't helping me out there. I'll be running on 93oct(street) and E85(track) this season. Not mixed, but I'll have 2 tunes.

Looks nice! Weight reduction will be your best friend in that quest. Few questions/ideas...

1) Why did you go with 8.5:1 if you plan on using a small turbo?

2) What do you mean by silly porting on the 16g?

As far as suggestions....

1.) Welding the flapper closed creates excess backpressure and will slow you down. Porting the exhaust housing to induce "creep" and retaining an operational gate will make more power.

2.) the screen/mesh in front of the turbo restricts more flow than you would think. (usually more than a good large area filter)  If you insist on running some type of screen, go with a honey comb type material found in the MAF. This will increase  laminar airflow into the turbo inlet and up it's effeciency slightly.

http://www.blackclouddiesel.com/Ford/TAG/tag.htm

IMO any restriction there is bad. A velocity stock and nothing else has proven to work best on most dyno pulls I've been a part of.

3) lastly IMHO you went to big! Awesome setup I'd love to have, but the 16g just won't be able to keep up with the huge cams/ported heads/intake/IC etc. If you went with more compression it would have helped alot with this.     

Throw a nice big snail on that thing and go trap in the 140's.

[ForceFed86]

Didn't mean to sound cheeky.  After reading the title and then reading the thread it just threw me off a little.  Not being critical just looking to spark conversation and try to help out. Slow days at work get sooo boring and I tend to get long winded.

I'm sure it will run great. Porting the turbo to creep will give you alot more with a 16g than the standard porting job aftermarket companies have been doing for years. Your basically leaving a high area before the WG dump hole and porting the hell out of the aft side of the WG hole. This encourages air to jump the gap and stay in the scroll instead of going out the wg hole. After doing this I hold 26.5psi at 7600 rpm. Before I'd bleed down to 25 by 6500 and 23ish by 7k. My full weight all option car with stereo and my 220lb ass in it trapped 119 with a 16g.


Good luck!

[2.3strokdtalon]

I didn't take it in a bad way. I guess it was my fault for not explaining a little better what the car has done and why the setup is the way it is. I'm looking to trap in the high 120's or maybe crack off a 130 when it's all said and done. I'll be running with the w/g sealed on E85 and I'm hoping to hold 30psi by w/e my shift point is. I'm willing to bet it'll spike to 40psi with the 2.3 in there. I guess this is all just speculation, but I'm pretty excited to see how the car behaves and what numbers it puts up at the track.

T3 manifold bolted to the 16g with adapter plate (yes the mesh is still on there ):

[2.3strokdtalon]

Valve cover finished 

[hakcenter]

did you paint it white, then tape off the letters and paint it black or you just that damn good ? 

[2.3strokdtalon]

Nope, mainly because it's not white. The picture does make it look that way though. All i did was paint it all black then used a hand held belt sander to remove the paint from the lettering/oil cap surface. Also, welded up the stock pcv and the stock breather port that went to the factory snorkel intake.

[hakcenter]

family guy - mmhmm

[vinnybean]

You delete your build off baystate? ha. Have you guys tuned with jackal or werewolf yet?

[2.3strokdtalon]

Not yet, but a friend of mine just bought a 1g and it came with Ostrich so he just has to pay for Jackal and then we're tuning it.

[vinnybean]

True. I am curious to see what you think of it. Do you guys do all street tuning or rent a dyno?

[2.3strokdtalon]

Pretty much all street tuning.