May 20, 2012, 01:02:21 PM
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Author Topic: no water in turbo  (Read 629 times)

chriscampbell_3

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    • 1979
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    • Motor: 4G63 2.0L
    • Head: 1G (large ports)
    • Turbo: 16G
no water in turbo
« on: February 16, 2011, 07:01:32 PM »
has anybody looped the water lines and not ran water through a mitsu turbo? would it hurt it?
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citymunky

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    • 1991
    • Galant VR-4
    • Motor: 4G63 2.0L
    • Head: 1G (large ports)
Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2011, 07:35:35 PM »
Quote from: chriscampbell_3 on February 16, 2011, 07:01:32 PM
has anybody looped the water lines and not ran water through a mitsu turbo? would it hurt it?

no, it will not hurt it if you allow time for the turbo to cool down runs or installing a turbo timer. My 18G's on my other car are NOT water cooled.
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'91 Galant VR-4 (923/2000). TD05H-20G, 2g 8.5:1 CR Pistons/ HKS 264 Exhaust Cam/1g head/1g Non-Turbo throttle body/1g intake manifold/2g exhaust manifold/Victory Performance 2.5" o2 housing/Tial 40mm WG w/ open dump/Pacesetter 1g 3" downpipe/3" high flow cat/3" catback/

1g20g

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    • Talon TSI AWD
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    • Head: 2G (small ports)
    • Turbo: 20g
Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2011, 09:35:17 PM »
I was wondering thr same thing to just clean up my engine bay and my car has a turbo timer already.
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k272s, eagle rods, mahle pistons, 2ghead, BC springs and retainers, 2g intake, ported 2g mani, arp head and main studs, BS removed. good ol 20g

talondood

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    • 1994
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Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2011, 02:26:29 PM »
You also have to consider that the coolant lines draw some heat away from the turbo, making air leaving the compressor side that much cooler.  From research, I've learned that it also helps prevent premature breakdown of the oil due to temperature increase.  And on a personal evaluation, I figured that dsm/mitsubishi/chrysler would have left these lines out in a heartbeat if they served no real purpose.  Just my $.02...or...would that be $.03 :shifty  But I'm down for a clean engine bay ;) 
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Pte 680's, Aeromotive FPR, Walb255/rewire, TurboXS RFL-H Bov & DSBC, Kinetic Racing FMIC / 2.5" Short Route,  3" Cold Air Intake / K&N, 3" SS Megan Racing Turbo-Back Exhaust.

1g20g

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    • 1991
    • Talon TSI AWD
    • Motor: 4G63 2.0L
    • Head: 2G (small ports)
    • Turbo: 20g
Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2011, 04:23:31 PM »
Im just not really sure how long the 20g will stay on the car i have a big h1c and hx35 but i kinda like the quick spool of the 20g and im not looking for a crazy horsepower car. Ima see if i can make them look a little cleaner thursday. :deadhorse
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k272s, eagle rods, mahle pistons, 2ghead, BC springs and retainers, 2g intake, ported 2g mani, arp head and main studs, BS removed. good ol 20g

themadcheshire

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    • 1992
    • Talon TSI AWD
    • Motor: 4G63 2.0L
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    • Turbo: 14b
Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2011, 07:54:54 PM »
The main reason oems keep the water lines is actually to prevent turbo failure due to oil coking when consumers don't let the car idle for a minute after driving hard.  It even says right on the visor "after driving for long periods of time or under harash conditions, please allow car to idle for a minute before shutting off car".  Or something like that.
It has always been my understanding that water lines were mainly for quick shutdown prolonging turbo life
Ill definitely be keeping mine.
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In order to make this work, I have to change 2 things;  one of them is the Laws of Physics.  Dammit..

1992 tsi awd, Jackal, JAW, FMIC, 680cc, 3 inch turbo back, 255 walbro, comp clutch and lightweight flywheel,  aem truboost, cyclone manifold.

ForceFed86

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Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2011, 11:16:14 AM »
I'll throw in my .02...

While the above may be true, I disagree with most of the other posts. Mitsu turbos are designed to be water cooled. Removing this option makes no sense. The oil supply is restricted because it is not being used to cool the cartridge like a garret unit. This means it will have less resistance and spool more quickly with less oil passing through it. (similar to ballbearing units) To take advantage of this feature they are water cooled. Unless you modify the turbo inlet and supply the cartridge with more oil volume and pressure to help cool it, removing the water lines will shorten the life of your turbo and slow it down.

My question would be why woud anyone want to remove it? Water cools ALOT better than oil. Why not run it how it was designed to be run? If you want to remove the lines for space/cosmetic reasons, get a turbo that is designed to be oil cooled.     

Again... just my opinion.
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5 speed, 6/4 Bolt, 3K on rebuilt motor deck surfaced. Weisco 8.5:1 pistons, eagle rods. OEM crank, factory port 1g head, valve job, head surfaced , new valve stem seals,  3G lifters, BC 272 cams straight up, HX40 turbo, spearco FMIC. TT supra pump, 1000cc inj, E85, SD Jakal.

1g20g

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    • 1991
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Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2011, 08:58:42 AM »
Quote from: ForceFed86 on February 25, 2011, 11:16:14 AM
I'll throw in my .02...

While the above may be true, I disagree with most of the other posts. Mitsu turbos are designed to be water cooled. Removing this option makes no sense. The oil supply is restricted because it is not being used to cool the cartridge like a garret unit. This means it will have less resistance and spool more quickly with less oil passing through it. (similar to ballbearing units) To take advantage of this feature they are water cooled. Unless you modify the turbo inlet and supply the cartridge with more oil volume and pressure to help cool it, removing the water lines will shorten the life of your turbo and slow it down.

My question would be why woud anyone want to remove it? Water cools ALOT better than oil. Why not run it how it was designed to be run? If you want to remove the lines for space/cosmetic reasons, get a turbo that is designed to be oil cooled.     

Again... just my opinion.


Thanks for the input, i have sincekilled my hx40 and have no plans to rebuild the wh1c or hx35 because i sold them and using a 20g again i ust cleaned my lines and its looks better and they still cool the turbo.
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k272s, eagle rods, mahle pistons, 2ghead, BC springs and retainers, 2g intake, ported 2g mani, arp head and main studs, BS removed. good ol 20g

2.3strokdtalon

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    • 1991
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Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #8 on: April 05, 2011, 05:27:43 AM »
Unless you plan on running the turbo for 100k miles then water lines on a Mitsu turbo are not needed. Like mentioned before, just let it cool a little at idle before shutting it down.
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Justin G.
10.4@142 (93oct)

ngpi

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Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #9 on: May 19, 2011, 12:12:24 AM »
My friend have a t4 turbo in 90 eclipse  which have NO coolant line on the turbo at all and run fine.
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OZ Rally

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    • Galant VR-4
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Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #10 on: May 19, 2011, 06:16:01 PM »
Quote from: 1g20g on February 20, 2011, 04:23:31 PM
Im just not really sure how long the 20g will stay on the car i have a big h1c and hx35 but i kinda like the quick spool of the 20g and im not looking for a crazy horsepower car. Ima see if i can make them look a little cleaner thursday. :deadhorse

An HX35 with the right setup and tune will spool the same or faster than a 20g. Full 25+ psi at 3500ish rpm.
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6/4, built head, BC 280s, FP ex mani, HX-35 w/ BEP housing, custom 3" o2 w/ v band downpipe, full 3" ex, 31"x11"x3.5" intercooler w/ custom 2.5" piping, HKS bov, DW 300, 1600s, e-85, aero fpr, rota slips, Evo MR Bilsteins, jackal w/ SD

1g20g

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    • 1991
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    • Head: 2G (small ports)
    • Turbo: 20g
Re: no water in turbo
« Reply #11 on: May 20, 2011, 06:04:30 AM »
Quote from: OZ Rally on May 19, 2011, 06:16:01 PM
Quote from: 1g20g on February 20, 2011, 04:23:31 PM
Im just not really sure how long the 20g will stay on the car i have a big h1c and hx35 but i kinda like the quick spool of the 20g and im not looking for a crazy horsepower car. Ima see if i can make them look a little cleaner thursday. :deadhorse

An HX35 with the right setup and tune will spool the same or faster than a 20g. Full 25+ psi at 3500ish rpm.

I dont have a holset anymore im using a garret turbo with the new build i sold the hx40 and the hx35 and the h1c lol so i dont have them. Its awesome how many time you can change set ups before the pos even runs! But have everything to put the 20g back on a keep the water lines its not that much of a hassle to be anymore iv become to kinda wanting to 20g back on but who the hell knows
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k272s, eagle rods, mahle pistons, 2ghead, BC springs and retainers, 2g intake, ported 2g mani, arp head and main studs, BS removed. good ol 20g
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