Is there a way to disable the Closed Idle Switch when moving? TPS ? as well

[2.3strokdtalon]

It's extremely annoying to have the ECU cut fuel when lightly on the throttle or at all frankly while moving. Anything I can do to get rid of this, but keep it's normal operation at idle?

Also, I set the TPS with my multimeter to .63v closed and 5v wide open as per the factory specs and in jackal it reads 13% closed and 100% open. Is there any fix to this or compensation I can do in Jackal?

[hakcenter]

Adjust the height of the switch on your throttle body ? Or are you using a 4 pin TPS ?

[2.3strokdtalon]

1g TPS with the closed idle switch. I'll try backing it out a turn, but I'm pretty skeptical that will make any difference.

[JLR11]

I too run Jackal and know first hand that .63 V is too high, you should be between .48-.52V in order to read 10%, at least mine does in Jackal. Backing the closed idle switch out a turn will only make matters worse since it will not being reading in the proper range or not at all.

You must first properly adjust your closed idle switch with the throttle cable loosened.
Second, adjust your TPS (.48-.52V) with the throttle cable loosened.
Third, adjust your BISS screw.
Fourth, set your timing.

Hopefully this will help, it sounds like you may be a little off on these "finicky" adjustments & I know first hand how much it should help with your issues. Once I learned the proper adjustment & sequence my engine ran/idled much smoother and I don't have any of the troublesome issues people generally complain about relating to the subject.

[John_H]

+1 on JLR11

[2.3strokdtalon]

I too run Jackal and know first hand that .63 V is too high, you should be between .48-.52V in order to read 10%, at least mine does in Jackal. Backing the closed idle switch out a turn will only make matters worse since it will not being reading in the proper range or not at all.

You must first properly adjust your closed idle switch with the throttle cable loosened.
Second, adjust your TPS (.48-.52V) with the throttle cable loosened.
Third, adjust your BISS screw.
Fourth, set your timing.

Hopefully this will help, it sounds like you may be a little off on these "finicky" adjustments & I know first hand how much it should help with your issues. Once I learned the proper adjustment & sequence my engine ran/idled much smoother and I don't have any of the troublesome issues people generally complain about relating to the subject.

This is the first DS-MAP car I've tuned and .63V is what you set the TPS when using DSMLink, so I figured it was the same here, but I guess not. I do know the process to set the closed throttle TPS voltage with a multimeter. I also setup the closed idle switch using the multimeter as per the FSM. I'll change the voltage and see if that helps, but I'm willing to bet it won't change anything other than the TPS % when closed.

[John_H]

if the Link is calling for 0.63 volts closed its because of something else.

Any and all other program/systems use roughly a half a volt(0.48-0.52) to set the TPS.

Hell, even most other CARS use this on normal tps signals.