Lc-1 Calibation Wire Question

[ZenDSm]

In the LC-1 Manuel.pdf the picture it shows for how to wire the calibration wire, it would appear the LED closes the circuit, and the switch doesn't actually switch anything.

this is how i see the picture:
(calibration wire) > LED red/LED black > car frame
+
(calibration wire) > switch > car frame

should they actually be wired in a line like:
(calibration wire) > LED red/LED black > switch > car frame

hope i made sense here, picture looks like the switch doesn't do shit.

[hakcenter]

Putting the LED behind the switch is not going to dump enough current to tell the LC1 to calibrate.

I'll have to look at the boat but if I remember right the light plays a role in letting you know the wideband is heating up.



Just make sure their connected at the same point on the calibration wire and the same point for ground.. they share.

I'll explain how it works in what I understand. Electricity is similar to water as it'll take the path of least restriction.. but to ground. That LED is only going to use up XYZ amount of current.. I think its like 10-50mA depending on the color, which is not a lot of current. That switch is going to be able to dump the rest of the current to ground.

Unless by some act of shear amazingness of wiring you get the ground from the button switch shorter than the length of the wire to the LED, the LED will consume the current first which is how they show you the blinking light as you hold the calibration button down.

Now I am no electrical engineer.. and that is how I see it.

[ZenDSm]

So basically the LED doesn't use or bleed off enough electricity for the system to recognize anything. But once the button is pressed on the switch it lets enough flow for something to trigger. Hmm.. mmkay

Makes sense, I guess i'll wire it like the pic' hopefully all goes well. I'm on a do it right the first time or be screwed kinda budget.

Bought Jackal and I need 5 posts 

[hakcenter]

[...] and I need 5 posts 

Bolded no longer a requirement. The only access to the download is via munah.

[stace]

I remember biulding that circut for my saturn! Its a bitch!  I biult a box in the ash tray so I could hide it., every month or so just before I changed the oil, I would let it sit for a day,a  and just pop open the ashtray and calibrate it. The MTX is soo much easier!

[eclipsegst1990]

Quick question:  How did you wire in your LC-1 into the 1g ECU?  Did you use analog output #2 from the LC-1 (brown wire) into the EGRT (pin15) or the O2 (pin4) on the ecu?  My LC-1 gauge reads 15:1 afr but I'm reading 7:1 at the Werewolf logger.  Just making sure I have things hooked up right on my friend's car.  Why such a wide spread difference?  I've programmed the Werewolf lamda to read 7 to 22 which is what the sensor outputs, but still wrong values.  Wondering if the gauge is wrong since my friend hasn't calibrated it in a year or more.  Any ideas?

[hakcenter]

Quick question:  How did you wire in your LC-1 into the 1g ECU?  Did you use analog output #2 from the LC-1 (brown wire) into the EGRT (pin15) or the O2 (pin4) on the ecu?  My LC-1 gauge reads 15:1 afr but I'm reading 7:1 at the Werewolf logger.  Just making sure I have things hooked up right on my friend's car.  Why such a wide spread difference?  I've programmed the Werewolf lamda to read 7 to 22 which is what the sensor outputs, but still wrong values.  Wondering if the gauge is wrong since my friend hasn't calibrated it in a year or more.  Any ideas?

You can wire any output you want to the O2 pin. Just make sure you tell the LC1 that its a 5v output.

[eclipsegst1990]

Just curious, the o2 sensor wire is only setup to read a maximum of 3 to 3.8 volts, is this correct?  I'm assuming using the o2 wire, we're losing some accuracy in our logs due to the 2 to 1.2v difference in resolution.  Anyway, I set up Werewolf to read the range of the LC-1 which is (gasoline):

0.1v = 7.35 afr

3.25v = 22 afr

^^^^ definitely better than my AEM which only reads up to about 18.  Anyway, as per your post, I assume I have to also use the software that came with the LC-1 and program it to output the above noted values as well in Analog #2 output.  Now I have to find the software and a damn USB to serial converter     
Do they even make those anymore!!!

[hakcenter]

The O2 pin can read all the way up to 5v, I don't know where you got this 3v - 3.8v value

[eclipsegst1990]

Ummm, nevermind about the 3v, I was looking at a Honda website for a good Innovate install and he was referring to a Honda ECU.  Forgot I was on a Honda site which is rare and the "how to" was done nicely - like a DSMer would.  Thanks for the help, but things are on hold for my friend since the nut lost his TERMINATING plug for the Innovate LC-1, so we can't go any further right now till he gets another. 

This terminator plug, isn't it just the two wires jumped or is there a resistor in the back? 

Here is the Honda site for Innovate install: 
http://www.lukekailburn.com/lc1.html

Here is the terminator plug in question: 
https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/search.php?mode=search&page=1