Complete How-To

[hakcenter]

The first step to running DS-MAP is to get together all of the necessary parts. There are a few variations of parts that can be used, so I will cover what I am using, and some of the other options that I am familiar with.

1) An EPROM'd ECU. Not all 1G ECU's come from the factory with an EEPROM chip on the ECU. You need to have an ECU with an EPROM chip on it so that you can desolder it and solder in your socket. There are a bunch of different opinions on which cars have the EPROM ECU and which don't, but to be honest none of them are 100% accurate so I'll leave that out. I was lucky and had one on my 91 Talon TSi.

To check to see if you have an EPROM ECU, you need to remove your ECU from the car and take the cover off. Here's how:

A) The ECU is located in the center console, under and behind the radio, so you have to remove the carpeted kick panesl from BOTH sides of the console. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding them in place.

Drivers side:


Passengers side:


B) Next, remove the 3 10mm bolts that hold the ECU in place between the center console.

Drivers Side:


Passengers Side:


C) You can now slide the ECU toward the passenger side of the car. Once you get it far enough out you can kind of tilt it and unplug the 3 connectors that plug into the bottom of the ECU.

D) Now is the time to cross your fingers and hope you have an EPROM ECU. If not, no big deal, they can be found on eBay, and Im sure some other places too. Just google that shit. Remove the 4 phillips scews on the outside of the case, and be careful not to strip them. Take the time to walk to the toolbox and get the right size, for some reason these tend to have some junk on them that makes them hard to break loose, at least mine did.

E) Now that you have your ECU open, here is how to tell if it is EPROM'd or not:

As you can see in the picture below the arrow points to the EPROM IC, this will get removed later in order to make way for a socket.


In this picture, the arrow points to the area where you are now wishing you were seeing an IC. Sorry, but time to scout around for a different ECU.


2) The Ostrich. This is the heart of DS-MAP which allows realtime chip emulation and is what you will be plugging your computer in to. I am using an Ostrich 2.0 available at Moates. (http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=169)


The original Ostrich will also work, however Moates no longer carries them, so you would have to find one used.

3) The MAP sensor. MAP stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure and measures just that, the pressure in the manifold. The base MAP sensor used for the DS-MAP project is a 3 bar MAP sensor which is good to 29.4 psi, however, if you plan on running over 3 bar of pressure, you will have to get a 5 bar MAP sensor and use extended tables so that it functions correctly. I am only running 25 pounds of boost, so I am using the 3 bar sensor. You can use either the GM part, or MSD. The MSD part is available at summitracing.com and jegs.com and I'm sure lots of other places. This can be mounted basically anywhere you want. I mounted mine

MSD P/N:  MSD-2313
GM P/N: 12223861


4) The IAT sensor. IAT stands for Intake Air Temperature. Im sure you can guess what it does. This also has an MSD part number and GM part number, and is also available at Summit, Jegs, and the like.

MSD P/N: MSD-2320
GM P/N: 25036751


5) 3/8" NPT Bung. In order to mount your IAT sensor, you need a 3/8" bung to weld into your intercooler piping where the IAT sensor gets screwed in. This is another thing you can find from multiple locations, summitracing.com.

Summit P/N: SUM-220072

6) Harness to connect the old MAF plug to the IAT and MAP sensors. This can be done in a couple of ways, you either order one premade from fullthrottlespeed, http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+CartId+%7B48B0AAEVEREST3B-304A-4356-8DD0-444B569B591E%7D+ic+050SD1G+eq++Tp+#.



As you can see from the picture, one end connects where the vehicle harness used to connect to the MAF sensor and the other end connects to the MAP sensor and the IAT sensor.

The second option is to make your own harness. To do that follow these steps:

A) The MAF wiring we are interested in is MAF sensor pins 4, 6, 7, and 8.


B) Connect the MAP sensor A to pin 6, B to pin 7, and C to pin 4.


C) Connect the two wires from the GM-AIT to pin 8 and pin 6. It is a resistor, so polarity does not matter.

If you have the money, I would recommend getting the harness from full throttle. They are based out of Michigan (my home-state) and they have great service and a super clean product. But I am usually a DIY guy myself, so the choice is yours.

[hakcenter]

Congratulations! You know have all of your hardware, so it's time to install that shit. Here is what you need you install and how I installed mine (yours may vary slightly).

0) Remove any old tuning garbage

For me this was just removing my SAFC and narrowband fireworks blinky blinky garbage 02 gauge, which was easy. So remove your SAFC or AEM EMS or DSMLink or whatever you may be using and any narrowband nonsene.

1) Get the 3/8" NPT Bung welded into your intercooler piping

Hopefully you are using aluminum intercooler piping and not still trying to run the stock rubber hoses. The reason for getting the bung welded into your intercooler piping is so you can mount your IAT sensor. You are going to want to mount this as close to the throttle body as you can so you can get the most accurate temps, however, you are going to want it BEFORE any nitrous or methanol nozzles. To clarify, you want any nitrous/meth spray nozzles between the throttle body and your IAT sensor, that way you dont throw off the measurements.

The IAT sensor mounted in the bung:
(insert pic here)

The intercooler piping reinstalled on the car:
(insert pic here)

2) Install your WB02 sensor

Now there are two different places you can install this, 18" down the DP, or in your old 02 sensors location. If you mount it in your old 02 bung, the life of your 02 sensor will go down, but the accuracy of your measurements will be greater. Since I didnt feel like having mine welded into my DP, and the since mine is not a daily driver, my 02 sensor life should not be that bad. However, if you daily drive your DSM, I'd recommend getting a bung welded into your DP for your WB02 sensor. Most muffler shops can do this, just make sure that they install it on the upper 180 degrees of the exhaust tubing so moisture does not collect and damage the sensor, and that it is at a sloping angle, not making a 90 degree (perpindicular) angle with the exhaust piping. Sorry if that is confusing...

Wideband installed in stock location:
(insert pic here)

NOTE: If you have a wideband gauge, install that too. Im not going to cover that in here due to the wide variety of gauges. Please see the documentation included with your gauge for further instructions

3) Install your MAP sensor

The easiest place to install your MAP sensor is on the firewall, you can simply mount it using selt taping screws, or you can mount it some other fancy way if you wish.

Here is mine:
(insert pic here)

4) Hook up your IAT and MAP sensors

If you bought the premade harness from FullThrottleTech, this is cake. You just plug one end into the plug that used to connect to your MAF sensor, and then plug the other end (which has two connectors) into your MAP and IAT sensors. Thats it. Well, you are probably going to want to cover the wires in the FTT harness with some wire loom, to keep them safe(ish). If you didnt buy the harness you can either make one by ordering the parts and doing it yourself, or you can cut off the connectors and hardwire it. Someone else can write a how-to on that

FTT harness at MAF plug:
(insert pic here)

FTT harness at MAP sensor:
(insert pic here)

FTT harness at IAT sensor:
(insert pic here)

[citymunky]

A Note for Galant VR-4 owners, the ECU is not behind the center console. Its mounted on the passenger side on the car. It's above the lower kick panel on the left side, just left of the glove box.