I have a set of regrinds from a reputable cam guy. Its all he does and all he has done basically all his adult life.
He sells new billet cams as well and makes more money on them, but he has a really good point on regrinds. If the cam you are regrinding is one that is prone to wearing out or cracking etc, then go with a billet. However if you are running cams ground on good stock cams, such as ours, where no one hears about cracked, broken or worn cams(not counting mistakes or severe neglect by the owner) then these are known good cams and can be as good or better than billets. The stock cams in these cars have been known to last many hundreds of thousands of miles and many many years without having any issues.
Mine are a different kind of cam. the intake cam has a different grind for each intake valve. The first one opens slightly sooner, but stays open longer so that both valves close at the same time. The second one opens a bit later but has a steeper ramp angle so it gets the valve open to match the first one. The second one also has more lift than the first one.
This achieves two things. First off, with one valve open by itself for a few degrees, it keeps the intake air velocity high, were 2 being open kill low rpm velocity.
Secondly it allows a larger exhaust cam to be run without any of the disadvantages.
it also promotes swirl in the chamber, with all the economy, emissions and mixture related benefits.
The car pulls to over 8000 rpm and has good to very good idle, and not much loss of low end at all. Mid range is better than stock or mild cams such as HKS 264 or Comp 101100 cams. And it has killer top end. Maybe not as huge as one of the bigger grinds but still very good.
He has been doing these for a while now and some of the dyno gains are incredible. He has routinely picked up 22-25 whp on the 2.2l non turbo Ecotec motors with just the cams installed, nothing else changed. And has no check engine lights on late model cars.
Good stuff in my books!
